Despite the virtual daily cooking of beans, I still don’t salt until, forgive me, the beans are my bitch, so to speak. There is a magical moment when the pot stops smelling like just mirepoix and water and starts smelling like beans. You can taste one. It’s not done but you know you’ve won. There’s no turning back for the bean. This is when I salt. It’s about three-quarters of the way through.
Steve Sando, proprietor of Rancho Gordo, as quoted by Michael Ruhlman, on when he salts his beans.